What is Vive, Stéphanie and David Le Quellec’s marine table worth?

The Vive restaurant (Paris 17
e ). François BOUCHON/Le Figaro

GASTRONOMIC CRITICISM – The couple Stéphanie and David Le Quellec set up, when they took over the maritime institution of Ternes Rech, one of the most punchy addresses in Paris.

Still no beach under our cobblestones but, this fall, hoist the sails, call from the sea, the leaders of consequence are plunging back into the marine tables. Here they are again on the side of this bank among the most expressive of their talent, ready to raise the level of a genre, in recent years, too often reduced to that of caboulot and whelks. This fall, the high is aiming for the tide.

Yannick Alléno has just taken over the Prunier Traktir (see you here, starting next week), Thierry Marx is preparing to cast off the moorings of a former institution of the 8e while, for a few days, the Breton couple Le Quellec has saved the pretty scales of what was the Rech, Parisian memory of the whole sea bass and grilled sole.

The address has therefore not changed and if the place still swings its double pontoon on two floors, it now finds a look, a mix of velvet and shells, good chic, good wind, with the dining bar at the glamorous and tangy manners from the ground floor…

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