Thomas Cabrol, the rising star of Tarn gastronomy

the essential
Sleek cuisine of ultra-local products, careful staging, the concept of the South Tarn chef, Thomas Cabrol, should attract the curiosity of the Michelin Guide. Until awarding him the green star?

On his inner left wrist, three stars. Blue, white and red, in reference to his three loves: his wife Anne and his two daughters. Failing to be anchored on his skin, a fourth would stick well to the spirit of Thomas Cabrol: the green star of the famous Michelin Guide, which rewards the commitment of the chefs in favor of a cuisine, an ecological thought gastronomy.

And if the native of Bout-du-Pont-de-Larn, installed on the heights of Payrin-Augmontel, in the Villa Pinewood, in the heart of a pretty green setting, was the next starred chef of the Tarn? Since 2016 and the disappearance of the last two stars, our department is still waiting for recognition from the Guide and the leader of a gastronomy that is nevertheless rich in talent and quality tables.
If the answer will not come until 2023, the indicators are already green for this lover of nature and this Black Mountain that he contemplates every day from his gourmet restaurant.

First of all, the media coverage: national and specialized press increasingly tick the name of the chef from the South of Tarn and call on his know-how and knowledge for their subjects around advice on food and wine pairings. Then, the eyes of his peers with the example of Éric Fréchon, three-starred chef, who came this summer to discover the innovative concept of Thomas Cabrol, 47 years old.
And finally, the most important, his cuisine: inspired by Nordic countries, refined, close to nature. To describe it, he borrows the term of Laurent Petit (three-star chef): “simplexity. »

12 guests around a counter and a show from 3 to 4 hours

In the plate of the unique fifteen-course menu, the 12 guests (future apostles?), comfortably installed around a large Japanese-style counter, in a service regulated like music paper, discover this land which surrounds them, work. “We are in an ultra-local approach: around 10 km away we find 80% of our products, 30 km away, 99%. Only the salt comes from Gruissan. When I was little, I always ate wild asparagus, wild garlic, meadowsweet… It was normal for me! The savage is part of my childhood, I understood very quickly that we could feed ourselves around us, ”explains the self-taught chef, who relies on Josette, queen of picking, she who sports and knows the smallest nooks and crannies. the Causse and the Montagne Noire to unearth flowers and edible plants as spices.

Thomas Cabrol’s free and vegetal cuisine, embellished with wine notes served with Anne’s expert eye, will seduce adventurers looking for a unique experience, lasting around 3h30.
A “show” that could well lead him to the star. Red maybe, green surely.

Worldwide success in Toulouse

In 2020, Anne and Thomas Cabrol leave Toulouse to rediscover their Mazametan roots and the serenity of the Tarn. Thoughtful risk taking. Recognized worldwide after obtaining the title, three times, of the best wine bar in the world for their N°5 Wine Bar, the couple had gone around the bottle. “The attraction of wine had come from a desire for cooking. I had found my way, I found enormous pleasure in it,” confides the great traveller, picky about food and wine pairings.
In his kitchen in Toulouse, Thomas chained the tests, the original cooking. A training ground where he was able to have fun and lay the groundwork for his current cuisine. Trying an evening at the wine-gastronomic table of the Villa Pinewood is the promise of going on “hikes in the south of the Tarn”, in about fifteen places, and to flatter the taste buds from the first bites. “It’s not a restaurant, it’s more a table, a guest counter”, describes the one who sublimates products considered second-rate. Like this “Carn’otte”, a carrot worked like a meat or extracting the quintessence of a shallot, by “playing with crispy-melting textures”.

Open 4 evenings a week from Wednesday to Saturday, at 328 chemin du Nègre, in Payrin. Menu: €89 (wine pairings €40 to €90).

Leave a Comment