The Ritz pastry chef’s secrets for a successful honey madeleine

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Each week, a chef gives you his advice on how to make a new recipe that will delight your taste buds… and your eyes.

If Proust saw “all Combray” out of her cup of tea, it is in Lorraine that the famous madeleine was born in 1755, during a grand dinner organized at the Château de Commercy by the King of Poland: the young Madeleine Paumier, replacing at short notice the official pastry chef, makes an egg cake molded in a scallop shell. The guests are enthusiastic, the pastries sent to Versailles to the wife of Louis XV. The beginning of a long story, culminating in a few lines in “A la recherche du temps perdu”…

The sequel after the ad

It is in homage to the writer, a familiar with the Ritz, that the pastry chef François Perret, when he took over the brigade of the palace seven years ago, included them on the menu of his “Thé à la française”. :

When I was asked at the Ritz to have a tea time in the Proust salon, I couldn’t see myself making scones and finger sandwiches in this mythical place. The madeleine, on which I pour a little milk, came naturally. »

Elected best restaurant pastry chef in the world in 2019, this “adept of just sugar” is inexhaustible on the art of making the madeleine: “The bump in the madeleine is a big question, but it’s quite simply the thermal shock that will cause the dough to rise. To do this, you must leave the already molded dough (a metal mold is better) overnight in the fridge, then bake it in a hot oven, 200°C for a few minutes, then lower it to 180°C. »

Honey madeleines from François Perret

For 8 to 10 people
Preparation: 30 minutes
Rest: ideally 2 days, otherwise 24 hours
Cooking: 10-12 minutes

The madeleine machine
• 160 g of type 45 flour
• 10 g baking powder
• 160 g of butter
• 3 eggs at room temperature
• 100 g caster sugar
• 40 g of acacia honey
• 30 g chestnut honey

The sequel after the ad

The frosting:

  • 300g icing sugar
  • 7 cl of water
  • 5g ascorbic acid
  • 40g olive oil

The recipe for the madeleine maker:

  • Sift the flour with the baking powder.
  • Melt the butter.
  • In a beater fitted with the leaf, mix the eggs, the sugar and the two honeys.
  • Gradually add the flour-baking powder mixture.
  • Finally add the hot melted butter.
  • Once the mixture is done, stop the motor to avoid emulsion.
  • Keep refrigerated for 24 hours before use.
  • The next day, butter a madeleine mould.
  • Preheat the oven to 180°C.
  • Divide the batter between the cavities of the mold and bake.
  • Lower the temperature to 160°C, then cook for 10 to 12 minutes, until the madeleines are golden brown.

Advice :

  • You can eat them the day they are cooked, but it is better to cook them the day before. Once cooled, wrap them in cling film and let them rest to glaze them the next day.

Frosting recipe:

  • Preheat the oven to 200-220°C.
  • Mix the frosting ingredients.
  • Apply it with a brush and put the madeleines in the oven for about 2 minutes so that it is dry to the touch.
  • Serve warm or at room temperature.

François Perret, pastry chef of excellence at the Ritz as in a food truck

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