Monday’s whispers: the unknowns of the Santoire, three Swiss stars for Sven Wassmer, Rémi Chambard defends the “Ile de France territory”, Guy Savoy the gesture and the manner, Nicolas Sale advances masked, new in Paris 16, the new plum tree has arrived | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

The strangers of Santoire

Jocelyn Fraisse and Maredsou Charvillat © GP

They are full of enthusiasm and determination, are 32 years old each, and met on the school benches. Jocelyn Fraisse and Maredsou Charvillat were trained at the hotel school in Clermont-Ferrand. Having worked with Xavier Beaudiment in their hometown, having traveled to Australia, then perfected with Jacques Chibois in Grasse, and alongside Philippe Augé at the Hostellerie de Levernois near Beaune, finally with Arnaud Lallement in Tinqueux, the three-star Reims , they took over an old mill that had been abandoned on the edge of a pond for eight years (“le Moulin de la Santoire”), belonging to the town of Saint-Saturnin in Cantal. They gave it new meaning, offering a rooted cuisine full of energy. Jocelyn and Maredsou, who are the “young people who rise from the land of volcanoes” have made their gourmet mill “the” table of the moment to visit between Aurillac and Saint-Flour. Their menus give pride of place to the most authentic products of the Auvergne country, treated with accuracy and meticulousness. Butternut and pig’s trotter velouté, beef tongue in tataki and caramelized cabbage pancake with chili sauce or Charles Murgat’s stuffed trout with combawa, persimmon and chorizo ​​from Salers are some of their wonders to discover. Make a date, there are already people…

Three Swiss stars for Sven Wassmer

Sven Wassmer © DR

He is the new and fourth Swiss chef on the roof of the gourmet world. Sven Wassmer, pure product of the Swiss gourmet universe, was born in Laufenburg, 35 years ago, in the Fricktal in Aargau, on the German border, on the banks of the Rhine, not far from Basel, where he was trained in Swiss hotel. He went to the three stars of Graubünden, Andreas Caminada at Schloss Schauenstein, then to the Park Hotel Witznau, on the shores of Lake Lucerne, with the two stars Nenad Mlinarevic. In Bad Ragaz, in the canton of Saint-Gall, in a palace (the Grand Resort Quellenhof Bad Ragaz), which has six quality restaurants, including Andreas Caminada’s two-star IGNIV, he delivers, in his Memories, now crowned of three stars, a cuisine that is both contemporary and very refined, inspired by the rich products of the Alps, herbs, fish, meat, roots, rubbed with those from elsewhere, but with a keen sense of minimalism, avoiding all superfluity. It is therefore the fourth three-star hotel in Switzerland, after Franck Giovannini from the Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville, Peter Knögl from the Cheval Blanc in the Trois Rois palace in Basel and finally Andreas Caminada, already mentioned.

Rémi Chambard defends the “isle of France territory”

Rémi Chambard © GP

The Gardens of Corot? This hotel residence on the outskirts of Paris, between a rolling avenue and the green of the nearby forest, with the ponds that made Corot dream, we know it. It has been embellished and refreshed by the Rennes hotel group Beautiful Life Hotels, while gaining entry into the closed club of Relais & Châteaux. In the kitchens of Corot, his starred table, Rémi Chambard, from La Rochelle who once spent time at the Sources de Caudalie in the Graves, took it into his head to highlight the “territory of the Ile de France”. Formerly, on the same theme, betting on watercress from Méréville, Pantin pâté and asparagus from Argenteuil, without forgetting the “hot veal”, a version of the calf’s head, revamped in a chic bistro style, Yannick Alléno invented the “Parisian terroir”. Rémi Chambard is aiming for him, on a parallel line, all the products of the former Seine-et-Oise, of the current Seine et Marne as well as of Yvelines, with sophisticated dishes and producers from the (very) large Parisian crown. , in gourmet version. Its large menu is thus like a stroll through traditional products and the villages of yesteryear. The appetizers mix burrata from Auffargis, and smoked eggs from the surrounding area. such as the Fontenay-sous-Bois potato with shallot and Sologne osciètre caviar, the Suresnes wine that brightens up the scallops with parsley root and “Les Terrasses” wine sauce. The homage to Ville d’Avray, the chic and rural town, but above all forest, where this beautiful restaurant is located, is a fine mushroom tart, candied onions, agastache. We’ll talk about it soon…

Guy Savoy, the gesture and the way

At sixty-nine, he does not hang up the gloves. He knows that he will die on stage like Molière, assures life begins today and begins again tomorrow. I can’t, I don’t want to stop! First of all, I don’t know how to do anything else. I have only one desire: to continue. I will never stop, until the end, at the crematorium: I just hope it won’t be overcooked! We will see later, there is never too much passion in this profession. never too much“. Thus Guy Savoy completes his new book which comes out this week at Cherche Midi, under the title: “le Geste et la Manière”. And the subtitle: Long live French Gastronomy (missing an exclamation mark). With his usual humour, linked to his passion, the great Guy du quai de Conti, first chef in the world according to the List, for 5 years, expresses his love for his profession, the difficulties of being in forced inactivity and the anxious waiting during the two confinements, but also his great faith in the French terroir, his products, his food artisans, his colleagues, who, like Georges Blanc in Bresse, Troisgros in Roanne, Guérard in the Landes, Pic in Valence, Roellinger in Brittany or Westermann in Alsace, to name but a few, defend the French culinary heritage with fervor. A book like a love song.

Nicolas Sale advances masked

Nicolas Sale © Maurice Rougemont

He was never strong in communication. Or, on the contrary, has always been very clever under naive approaches. Nicolas Sale had announced his departure from the K2 group in Courchevel (where he twice held two stars, including once with his assistant Glenn Viel, who has since become the three-starred star that we know) when the red guide was already complete. Then he left the Ritz, surreptitiously, at the beginning of last year, claiming that he was leaving for a personal project“. Since then, he had become the itinerant ambassador and president of the friends of Auguste Escoffier. But, for his personal future and his career, it was the black out total. Until last Thursday, when through his PR intermediary, he sent a press release stating: ” after six years at the Ritz, Nicolas Sale promised to write a more personal page of his career. This will be done with his first project which will be born in 2023 and where he will be the only master first.. It is in an unexpected universe, a Mecca for gastronomy and products, that this new address has been thought out by the chef, the first to take over the premises. An opportunity for this man of passion to speak on subjects that are dear to him, to tell his story, his life course and break the codes. A personal investment above all else where he will be in the front row, closer to the producers, to select exceptional products“. A clear way of not saying anything specific, but of asserting one’s presence. Even if on the side of the Rungis market, everyone knows that Nicolas is preparing there, in a warehouse in the village (in this case in the old “Marmite” on the avenue de Bourgogne), his future ” large restaurant » ... When we tickle him, he admits that “ this project, which is slowly being built, will be human, sharing and transmission. And should see the light of day in spring or even summer 2023“… Cultivate the vagueness, we will see lights there“, once said Jacques Chancel, the presenter of “Radioscopie” In this field, Nicolas Sale is therefore a past master. He, whom we have been following for a long time – at the Pêcheurs du Cap d’Antibes-Beach Hotel, at Le Castellet in Beausset and at the M at the Hyatt Madeleine, has more than one trick up his sleeve and always lands on his feet. This Parisian newsboy, born at the bottom of the Montmartre hill, brought up in Aubervilliers and Pantin, spent at the Vaudeville and the Pavillon Royal, at the Magnolias de Perreux and in the shadow of Philippe Legendre at George V, at Lucas Carton with Alain Senderens, at Gagnaire and at the Meurice with Marc Marchand, had obtained three stars at the Ritz: two at the Espadon, the evening table, one at the Jardin, that of lunch. We wish him the same success in his new venture.

New in Paris 16

Fred Prudhomme and Laurent Chéné © GP

Change of chef at Paris Seize (our bistro of the year, during our recent “bistro trophy”), but no style. The former chef, the young Kennie Bonaventure, left to become a DJ. We wish him good luck and a great career. The new chef, Laurent Chéné, is no stranger to the Dumant group, as he had previously worked at the Auberge Bressane. This specialist in quenelles, soufflés, vol au vent, is at ease here to continue concocting “good Parisian cuisine”, with provincial roots, of good quality. At the reception, we find the round rubicond Frédéric Pud’homme, present there for a quarter of a century, who watches over the place with a very fraternal civility. The 1950s-style setting, on the ground floor of a modern building, with its moleskin benches, its high-tech chairs, its sports canvases (with its nods to the legendary center forward, Raymond Kopa and the magical Russian goalkeeper called “the spider”, Lev Yachine), his card written in purple ink, plays the vintage side with gusto. Pie, mimosa leek, porcini cream, green bean salad and raw Paris mushrooms, fillet of beef with morels, sautéed squid, bite-sized à la reine (veal sweetbreads, poultry, mushrooms) like a monument of the genre, beef, cheese soufflé are delicacies here, fine, generous, classic in appearance, eternal in their peacefully affirmed taste. We’ll talk about it soon!

The new plum tree has arrived

Fabien François and the service © GP

That Prunier changes style, reconnecting with its glorious past, we already told you a few weeks ago. The house, which is celebrating its one hundred and fiftieth anniversary – it was created by Alfred Prunier in 1872 (it was then rue d’Antin in the 2nd arrondissement), had moved in 1875 to rue Duphot, where it has since been reviewed by Jean- Claude Goumard and his successor Philippe Dubois, becoming Goumard. This last sign has just been sold and the place will be transformed into offices. On the other hand, the legendary Prunier house on rue Traktir, corner of Victor Hugo, continues in 1920s fashion, under its historic facade of green mosaics. The Caviar House and Prunier group entrusted the kitchen to Yannick Alléno. The decor has been revamped in the Art Deco spirit by interior designer Alexandra Saguet, supported by Studios Gohard and L’atelier du Mur. And the cuisine signed by Ledoyen’s three-star restaurant, which has the art of doubling up flexibly (he proved it in Pavie near Saint-Emilion and in Monaco in his Pavyllon de l’Hermitage) has designed a nautical chart of high tenacity, where the caviar, from the house breeding of Gironde, is highlighted with boldness. In the kitchen, officiates chef Fabien François, graduate of the Robuchon school, who we saw not so long ago at the Dassaï restaurant on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The score that is played here with finesse, between ancient and modern, with many references to the great Prunier tradition, is totally seductive. Thereby, oysters au gratin with maître d’hôtel butter, the famous Christian Dior egg with caviar grains and ham jelly, Parisian-style Balik salmon “as Yves Saint-Laurent liked it”, with Saint James caviar and lovage mayonnaise , which are among the new house classics. There is also the provocative artichoke ice cream and caviar quenelle, the pumpkin jelly with farmhouse cream and caviar, the special oysters with almond milk and dill or the plated sea bass with celery and caviar without forgetting the fried whiting “Prunier style”, with its tuna and caviar tartare. We do not omit, in fine, the pretty Parisian pastries, nor the ganaches signed Alleno & Rivoire. We’ll talk about it soon…

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