The Michelin chooses Alsace
Last Tuesday, in the premises of the Maison d’Alsace, on the Champs-Elysées, Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the red guides, and Frédéric Bierry, president of the European Community of Alsace, announced the release of the Michelin France guide on 6 next March. This will, of course, come as no surprise to our readers, to whom we had twice announced the event. The European community of Alsace would have spent €390,000 (excl. tax) to host the event and many future Alsatian partners (including Massenez bought out by Perreux) to collaborate on the event. This one, which, over two days, must bring together the great world of gastronomy, not only French but European, is obviously promising. For Frédéric Bierry, former president of the Bas-Rhin departmental council, which has become that of the entire Alsace region (the “Great East” remaining the prerogative of Mulhouse Jean Rottner), it is a way of ” highlight all those who feed us, from farm to fork, everywhere in Alsace. “For Gwendal Poullennec, after the snub inflicted three years ago on the region, after the fall of the 3rd star of the Auberge de l’Ill which had held it for 51 years without interruption, it is a way of repair. A way also to salute a regional entity with exceptional wealth, in terms of products, wines, beers, popular and prestigious establishments. In 2022, for two departments, Alsace has 33 starred restaurants, including 7 with two stars (Villa Lalique in Wingen-sur-Moder, Cheval Blanc in Lembach, Merise in Laubach, Fourchette des Ducs in Obernai, JYS in Colmar, Auberge de l’Ill in Illhaeusern and Chambard in Kayserberg), which makes a total of 40 stars. Let’s bet that promotions are coming.
Momen’s Happy Duo
They are called Louis Amen and Romain Moreau, met at Laurent avenue Gabriel, with Alain Pégouret, at the time of the two stars, made some big houses, like the Meurice Alléno period (four years during!), Guy Savoy, between the rue Troyon and the quai de Conti, but also at the Marcon, Régis and Jacques, in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid. What beautiful linen with three stars! This is to say what good wood these two gifted and yet modest thirty-year-olds warm up to. They took over a house, on a sleepy corner of boulevard Haussmann in Paris, which was once a mythical wine bistro (“My Burgundy”), where the happy companions of the “Francs Mâchons” gathered, around our late friend Michel Piot. Then a Lebanese snack (“l’Emir”), finally a trendy table (“l’Un des Sens”). They transformed the latter into today’s bistro, funny, gourmet, noisy, crowded at lunchtime, quieter in the evening, in an office district where it is advisable to eat quickly and efficiently, in any case full of liveliness and gaiety. They demonstrate their know-how, their tact and their sense of quality produce, along a reasonable menu and according to a €36 menu that changes every lunchtime. The dynamic Julie, already present in the premises before, offers a choice of wines by the glass with rigor and competence. In any case, we love everything they offer, such as the perfect organic egg with its piperade, its crispy ham with basil or the mischievous frozen eggplant velouté, with its smoked Greek yoghurt and coriander. We’ll talk about it soon.
The Little Retro Guy Savoy and Irwin Durand version
Le Petit Rétro on rue Mesnil was one of the discreet and safe harbors in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. This old bistro dating from 1904, with its listed earthenware, its bar, its terrace, its friendly service, was taken over by Guy Savoy and his chef at Chiberta Irwin Durand, both partners in the business. If they didn’t touch the decor or the soul of the place, they imagined a kitchen in keeping with the retro atmosphere. The choice of wines takes you from Touraine (with the Chinon de Couly) to Beaujolais (with the Fleurie from Antoine and Maxime Graillot at the Domaine du Ja) without forgetting to marry a household cuisine, openly “traditional” which fits like a glove. instead with these pretty nooky rooms. Gribiche egg and mouillettes with shallot confit, toast au gratin with marrow and herb salad, retro version pie (signed by Conquet in Laguiole), vegetable tart, eggplant, zucchini and tomato compote for vegetarians and lovers of light foods, but also steak tartare with a knife, argan oil and homemade fries and above all stuffed heirloom tomato with its pretty spicy minced beef and tomato rice pilaf have something to answer for. We add sweet treats very much in keeping with the spirit of the place, such as the chocolate profiterole with its crunchy choux pastry, its vanilla ice cream from Madagascar, plus its pretty flavors of ice cream from the artisan Pedone, like those in almond milk and pink pralines. In short, good, tasty and uncomplicated. Success assured!
Nicolas Saltiel takes over Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel
Together with his recently deceased father Hubert, who we knew at Relais Boccador, he runs the hotel branch of the HN6 insurance group. Nicolas Saltiel, who owns, with his group, the Monsieur hotels in Paris (five units including Monsieur Helder, near the Grands Boulevards, Monsieur Cadet, in the Opéra district, Monsieur George on the edge of the Champs Elysées, and restaurants including Galanga, where the young Thomas Danigo works, rue Washington, Café Aristide and Zapi), last year bought La Ponche, a historic and legendary hotel in Saint-Tropez near the eponymous beach, frequented by Bardot, Sagan and so many others. He has just discreetly taken over from Ferrante, former casino owners of Juan-les-Pins and Montrond-les-Bains, the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, a modern establishment on the edge of Cap d’Antibes, affiliated with Relais & Châteaux, with its contemporary rooms, its Plage des Pêcheurs, the gastronomic restaurant of the same name, starred, where chef Nicolas Rondelli works, and a beautiful beach table called Le Cap. For the time being, nothing has changed, even if he projects a refresh of the decor which may be the sign of a rebirth of the place.
Bruno Verjus launches Cavalieri
The address is both mythical and cursed. Mythical because Brigitte Bardot lived there, in a large duplex from 1956 to 1971 – her son Nicolas was born there in 1960. On the ground floor, it was for a long time the Marée Passy which attracted fish and seafood lovers from the 16th in Paris, with a warm welcome, a family atmosphere and good value for money. Cursed, because the house, opposite Mavrommatis Passy created in the meantime, remained closed for a long time after a brief Russian interlude, in 2018, under the sign of Tsari, quickly closed without finding a buyer. So here is Cavialeri under the leadership of Marcel Benhamou, an international hotel consultant who has created a dozen hotels, including the Intercontinental Tbilisi, Moscow and kyiv, successfully creating hotels in Georgia (such as the Laerton Hotel in Tbilisi) and who has a wonderful project underway in Dakhla, Morocco. He entrusted the Cavialeri menu to Bruno Verjus, the two stars of “Table” in the 12th arrondissement, who signs a Mediterranean menu “in freedom”. The dishes of this lover of Greece will wink all around the Mediterranean but never lock themselves up anywhere: Italy (from which the house borrows its name), Greece, of course, but also Spain, Morocco, Lebanon, Israel. ” It’s my imaginary of the Mediterranean, a sort of voyage of Ulysses, without obligation of any kind, nor possible return, nor any known regional dish. , specifies the latter. Bruno Verjus, who is ” artistic director of the house“, set up one of his former chefs, the Italian Cristian Stradaioli who will work with his brother and pastry chef Kevin. The place will accommodate 65 covers over 120 m2 and should be used non-stop, every day from 12 p.m. to midnight. Scheduled opening: September 21.
Farewell to Guy-Pierre Baumann
Next March, he would have been delighted to greet his colleagues from Paris and elsewhere who had come to Alsace, during the next Michelin outing. Guy-Pierre Baumann was not so lucky. The buyer of Kammerzell, who was the propagator of fish sauerkraut, died last week at the age of 82. This native of Magstatt-le-Bas, in Sundgau, who was born on the family farm in 1940, had attended hotel school in Strasbourg to the chagrin of his father who would have preferred to see him notary, lawyer or doctor. Trained at Chambard in Kaysersberg, then at the Rhine and Danube in Colmar, rode to the capital… on a scooter, he was received in rue St Roch, at the society of cooks, by a manager of the association, a native of Marseille, for whom his Alsatian accent is a pledge of seriousness and which makes him hire at Weber rue Royale. He will then go to Maxim’s, before the Lutetia, Lasserre and the Ritz. He created the first Baumann, in 1966, 41 rue de Clichy, the Baumann-Napoléon, avenue de Friedland, in 1968, then the Baumann-Ternes, the Baumann-Baltard at Les Halles and the Baumann-Marbeuf near the Champs Elysées. Everywhere he promotes fine meats and good sauerkraut, offering summer sauerkraut, with fish, with salmon, monkfish, halibut, where smoked haddock replaces the light, healthy bacon idea that appeals to ladies. There will also be sauerkraut with duck confit, oriental sausages, like the classic Strasbourg. He also pays homage to his mother, with his Adeline leek salad, which combines crunchy leeks and fine lemony mayonnaise. But he misses Alsace. In 1986, he received a visit from Germain Muller, deputy mayor of Strasbourg, and Pierre Pfimlin, the mayor, former chairman of the council, who suggested to him: “ and if you came back to the country? What if you took over the Kammerzell? » « How about the cathedral? “, answers Guy-Pierre laughing, believing it to be a joke, he, a Parisian for so long who hardly sees himself living at the wiser pace of Strasbourg. He will, however, get used to it fairly quickly. He takes over this medieval gem which he democratizes. Then will run the Chaîne d’Or, a neighboring brasserie, as well as Alsace à Table, a marine table with a paradoxical name. La Kamm’ will be his jewel: he will embellish and enlarge it, buying the adjoining house which will house the salons. When in 2010, the young and enterprising Jean-Noël Dron bought his various houses, he appointed Guy-Pierre chairman of the supervisory board of Kamm’ and kept Hubert Lépine, his faithful boss, at his side. Sign that the continuity ensured by this quiet renovator is respected. For several years, Guy-Pierre had been weakened by Parkinson’s, but he watched his beloved “Kamm'” with an expert eye. This Wednesday, his official funeral will take place nearby: in the cathedral of Strasbourg, all of pink sandstone, which he will have loved so much…