Kel Délice, potential at rue Bois de Nêfles

We arrive shortly before noon, after having walked around the neighborhood three times to find a parking space. If a bit of a walk doesn’t scare you, and you’re reluctant to gnaw at your brakes and bite your steering wheel in rage, the “Security parking lot” is a possible solution. And if however you find a place not far, play the Loto, it’s your day.

The restaurant is housed on the ground floor of a building set back from the street, right next to a pastry shop. The menu of the day is placed on the sidewalk.

Cabri massalé, brèdes chicken, sea bream curry, crispy chicken and cantonese rice, sautéed beef with onions, pesto chicken tagliatelle and dried tomatoes, and “pavement of salmon, green bean cream of dill potatoes”. Two last dishes that prove an opening (and a skill) towards other culinary heavens.

We wanted to have lunch on site, but the configuration of the premises does not encourage us to do so. Inside the tables are in disarray, outside there is no visible parasol to ward off the early heat of midday. Too bad, we leave with trays. Cabri, fish and beef will be tested.

We start with the fish, which is not a curry but a ginger fish. The menu displayed inside is good but not the one outside. Last minute change no doubt.

The bites are very tasty and soft. The fish, spiced up by the rhizome and a mild, delicate salty seasoning, is very good. Its somewhat raw side has been domesticated, without being stifled. Carrots and crunchy slices of ginger go under the tooth with happiness. The barquette could be finished without difficulty, but two other dishes are to be tasted.

The kid sniffs himself with pleasure. If the visual appearance in the tray is “pâté”, the smell of massalé is rather sweet and refined. The color already announces it, we are not dealing with this “big” very roasted massalé, which sends slaps. Confirmation on the palate with fairly complex flavors that bathe and delight the taste buds. The pleasure is increased by a successful cooking without which certain pieces of goat could have been used as rubber band with slingshot. On top of this, the salt without exaggeration supports the tangy contours perhaps sent by tamarind, and which excite the appetite. This massalé goat is indisputably in the upper half of the list of the best we have tasted.

We finish with the beef. The sautéed with onions (and peppers) has an interesting “wild” side. It looks like beef with grandmother’s sauce, in spirit. The pieces require a bit of chewing, which is not displeasing to us. Teeth are made for that, although the general trend leans towards soft, pre-chewed food, that of multinational burgers, which has formatted the younger generations to the point that they will no longer need their earthenware a beautiful day, and will breakfast with straw.

Bad point for the rice. If it is properly cooked, it makes no secret of its low extraction. Loose grains ooze a little. It’s semi-luxury, unless I’m mistaken. Interesting for the margin, less for the lamb’s lettuce. Nothing to say on the other hand about the white beans, good and velvety.

The dakatine rougail sends chilli wood, a real dope for the Grand Raid. The “zognons” rougail is also good, although coarse in presentation. The cucumber rougail stands out with the massalé goat, bringing a welcome fresh crunch.

We pay €23.50 for the three trays. The price-performance ratio is acceptable.

What Delight! Promise kept? In any case, the restaurant on rue Bois de Nèfles has nothing to be ashamed of its cuisine. The service of the day did not disappoint us, except perhaps the rice, to be reviewed in our opinion. To change curries, the cook also knows how to offer different dishes, as well as salads and some homemade cakes. An effort should be made on the setting first, and on the welcome, polite but lacking in warmth, if we are to believe in our experience of the day. Hopefully it’s different most of the time. If the trend is confirmed during our next visit, Kel Délice should easily enter the “yellow guide” next year. To be continued then.

Alexandre Begue

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