Fed with the cuisine of Provence, Le Daguet de Costaros has grown well

This Monday morning, like every week, is market day in Costaros. Around 9 a.m., while the merchants and shoppers of the first hour, wrapped up in their coats, remake the world, at Le Daguet, around a coffee, anecdotes and other slices of life are going well. On the service side, despite the ten customers present, it’s not yet the race. Although… Although she is exceptionally helped by her mother, Muriel, her brother, Fabrice, her apprentice, Cassandra, and her seasonal employee, Émilie, Ondine Dubouloz, 32, multiplies the round trips between the room, the bar and the kitchen. She has owned this “countryside restaurant” for more than four years. He is what she “always dreamed of having”. Finally, since she changed her way.

From the Marseille scalpel to the Altiligérien knives

At the start, Ondine Dubouloz did not predestine herself to a future made up of coffee, stoves and Formica counters. Rather, she saw herself walking in her father’s footsteps. After a year at the Faculty of Medicine of La Timone, in Marseille, she realizes that the profession does not really correspond to the image she had of it… “I had fallen in love with my father’s medicine , the one where we spent one hour per patient, to discuss. But I realized that I was moving more towards timed medicine”.Bernard and Nadine Moulergue and two regulars

Knowing that she wouldn’t be able to fit into this “mold”, she chose another: catering. “It brings together a whole bunch of things that I like. And then, already since I was little, I was cooking, ”she explains, while the clinking of the cups increases with the customers who flock.

At first I focused on 100% local cuisine, then I showed who I was
by preparing more Provençal dishes

In 2011, she obtained a BEP in cooking then, the following year, a BTS in tableware and service, with a culinary production option on a work-study program at the Cave de Baille. This led him to train in oenology. Her talent is such that a school in the area, based in Marseille, spotted her and offered her to join their ranks. It was without counting on a major tear in the shoulder, causing him four years of work stoppage and more than five operations. “It happened by forcing it,” says Ondine.Customers about to taste Ondine’s cuisine.

The 30-something is hyperactive in nature. “The kitchen was the solution. It channels me completely and it allows me to express myself in a specific setting. That’s why I wouldn’t do anything else for anything in the world”.

A local clientele quickly conquered

In 2015, after spending holidays in the region, Ondine Dubouloz decided to settle in Costaros, with her parents and her grandfather. His shoulder injury has not buried his hopes of a career in the restaurant business. Four years later, she met a couple from the village, Bernard and Nadine Moulergue, who separated from their bar-restaurant. She bought it and renamed it Le Daguet, finding that the idea of ​​”the beginner deer with its young horns suited her well”, as a new restorer.The hall on a busy day.

A wind, or rather a whirlwind of freshness blows over the establishment. The kitchen and the rooms are renovated, equipped, the decoration is modified. Through her grandmother’s copperplates and other paintings that she hangs everywhere, she distills her personality and her story. As for the menu, this enthusiast opts for local dishes made from the know-how of local producers. “I thought it was important to make them work, because they know their products and their animals. I went to see them one by one to offer them a collaboration”.

The latter still continues today and some of its suppliers have become frequent customers, each ordering their favorite dishes from it. “His strawberry is too good”, compliments Virginie Surel, producer of goat cheese in the town of Brignon, present this Monday, on the market. “She has a great technique for making omelettes,” adds Frédéric Chery, a primeur from Langogne, tending to his stand not far from there.

I’m proud to see that she continues
and may it prosper well. I wish him success

Year after year, the restaurateur develops her menu and begins to offer recipes from elsewhere. “At first, I focused on 100% local cuisine. Then I showed who I was by preparing more Provençal dishes. I also started, every weekend, to offer dishes from other countries, in particular royal couscous with three meats or even Chinese soups”. She devotes herself body and soul to making her business flourish. So much so that his son Nathan, now 2 years old, was almost born in his establishment. “My water broke in my kitchen. I sent in my crème brûlée and went to give birth at the maternity ward. A week after my cesarean, I was back”.The horse traders.

His involvement in the town of Costaros does not go unnoticed. The Marseille tornado is gradually attracting the sympathy of the locals, more and more of whom are pushing the doors of Le Daguet. Like this Monday with four horse dealers, Jean, Fernand, Dédé and Stéphane, sitting at a table near the windows to enjoy their sandwich. “We are always well served here,” appreciates Jean, 76, adding that he has come to the establishment since he was very young.

A few tables away, Bernard grew up in this place. His parents, Juliette and Baptiste Moulergue, created the bar in 1958. “From the age of 6, I drew wine to help them, he recalls, sipping his coffee. Then, I passed a CAP. I worked with my mother who provided the service and the kitchen while my father took care of the bar. On April 15, 1977, I joined my parents. Then in 1982, I completely took over the establishment with my wife before selling it in July 2019 to Ondine”. Since then, every Monday, the couple comes to see with satisfaction how the affairs of a place that is dear to them are doing. “I’m proud to see that she is continuing and thriving well. I wish him success. »

The creation of stopover rooms and an Amap

Last August, obtaining the Bistrot de Pays label, created in 1993 to support independent bistro owners, reinforced Ondine in its integration into the commercial landscape of the plateau. “I admit, I shed my little tear because I said to myself that, even if I struggled for three years, between the Covid and the shortages, I am still here. Like my local clientele that I took a long time to acquire”. Driven by this new victory, the Ondine storm is not about to weaken. The storefront.

The young mother, now Altiligerian by adoption, has plans full of ideas. From next January, work should be launched on the floor of his business. Seven stage rooms, intended for hikers, will see the light of day from April. In a slightly more distant future, an Amap (Association for the maintenance of peasant agriculture) should perhaps also be founded. One thing is certain: the mistral will continue to blow for many more years on Costaros and its surroundings.

Dominique Lemoine

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