At Cavalieri and La Condesa, two starred chefs are expanding their know-how and Parisian gastronomy

The Cavalieri menu, created and signed by the two-starred chef Bruno Verjus at the Table restaurant, gives pride of place to products from the South: sunshine on the plate and gustatory happiness.

Behind the stove, Bruno Verjus has installed two trusted men: the Stradaioli brothers, Cristian and Kevin, natives of Emilia-Romagna, Italy. They have worked with the greatest, such as Alajmo in Rubano and Enrico Crippa in Alba, both with three stars.

The Cavalier restaurant

The name alone is an invitation to travel, to a cavalcade along the blue shores of the Mediterranean. It is also the love of large tables, where you can taste tasty dishes and where the atmosphere is as warm as it is authentic.

Located in the heart of the XVIe arrondissement, between the Place du Trocadéro and the Muette district, Cavalieri, in the hands of Marcel Benhamou, owner of the restaurant, is a living space of 120 square meters and sixty-five seats, which offers southern-inspired cuisine : from Spain to Italy, from France to Greece, the menu offers exclusive homemade specialties concocted from fresh products with refined tastes.

The dining room of the Cavalieri restaurant. | Thesocialfoodparis

On the dining side, the restaurant reveals itself in a festive atmosphere: the undeniably chic decor is by Lisa Benhamou-Marciano. This voyage of the senses inspired her greatly and she managed to combine Parisian chic with the colors of the South, choosing noble materials including strips of beige and yellow marble imported from Italy. Overhung by a chandelier that extends over the entire length, the central high table is there so that conviviality is always at the rendezvous.

The joinery, on the other hand, is made of walnut wood imported from Sicily. An odyssey that extends to the hand-painted tableware, which is inspired by the two-tone bottle green and ocher yellow aesthetics of the Amalfi Coast.

The kitchen

Under the direction of Bruno Verjus, for whom exceptional cuisine rhymes with humility and respect for products, the Cavalieri team intends to make this experience a delight and an ode to pleasure. As the chef writes in The Art of Feeding: “Cooking is never taking your eyes off the living.”

“I am above all a being of the sea: the little red mullets, the sea anemones. But also the scent of olive blossom and olives when pressed, the acidity of citrus fruits, the sweetness of almond trees , the flavor of capers… All this makes me travel. At Cavalieri Restaurant-Paris, I want us to be in a form of magic. As soon as you push open the door of the restaurant, it’s as if you were arriving by sea, by boat, ready to discover another horizon. To nourish well is also to nourish the soul. To make beautiful cuisine, you need a double appetite: that of products and of life»explains Bruno Verjus, philosopher of good food.

Cavalieri restaurant menu

The entrees: candied and raw vegetables, citrus fruits and zaatar oil (19 euros), Cavalieri salad (19 euros), tomatoes as a fruit salad, feta cheese from Nikos Memmos, Kalamata olives, fruit (19 euros), fish from vintage detailed day, tarama Cavalieri, wild aromatics (24 euros).

At the Cavalieri restaurant, the raw detailed fish of the day, tarama Cavalieri. | Cavalieri

The dishes: candied, grilled and raw vegetables in a large warm salad (24 euros), red tuna belly grilled like a pepper steak, candied eggplant (34 euros), whole grilled fish of the day, zucchini pizza (36 euros) , lamb rolled with wild herbs and olives, roasted in patience, candied fennel, mussels (36 euros), Galician cow rib, anchovies from Santona (58 euros per guest), chicken or guinea fowl roasted with garlic and fresh rosemary (29 euros) or whole poultry (115 euros).

At the Cavalieri restaurant, tuna belly grilled like a pepper steak, confit aubergines. | Cavalieri

Desserts by pastry chef Kevin Stradaioli: Mediterranean cheeses, condiments and jams (18 euros), madeleine with citrus fruits and black olive jam, olive oil (14 euros), dark chocolate mousse, sweet pepper cream and candied olives (14 euros) , Linosa caper tiramisu (18 euros), ice cream and sorbets (4 euros each)

Around the Mediterranean in aperitif snacks

Grilled natural sourdough bread, intoxicated with Kardamili olive oil or natural sourdough Manouché bread are served with, among other things, anchovies from Santona matured for eighteen months in salt (12 euros), candied eggplant, creamy feta , smoked sweet pepper (16 euros), fresh burrata, fruity black olive oil, pistachios and wild barberry (18 euros).

And also, beef cecina from Capricho (22 euros), mammoth olives from Kalamata (9 euros), Golden bottarga from the Trikalinos family (22 euros), half-cooked half-cooked sardines (18 euros)… An exotic taste journey.

The tour of the Mediterranean on a tailor-made trip

White beans with bottarga (24 euros), Cavalieri sourdough bread pizza (24 euros), veal tartare in the spirit of a vitello tonnato (28 euros), pistachio pastel russo with vegan or classic ice cream ( 19 euros).

At the Cavalieri restaurant, veal tartare in the spirit of a vitello tonnato. | Cavalieri

To read: The art of feeding by Bruno Verjus. Editions Flammarion. 192 pages. €17.90.

71, avenue Paul Doumer, 75016. Tel.: 01 40 50 91 17. Card from 55 to 90 euros. Reservation by phone or via the website. Closed Sunday and Monday.

A new address: La Condesa by chef Indra Carrillo, a star

One wonders how many lives this intrepid chef had for having learned so much know-how, having had so many culinary experiences and created so many new flavors in such a short time.

Chief Indra Carrillo. | Laurent Dupont

His solid training at the Paul Bocuse Institute, his professional experience alongside Éric Fréchon at the Bristol, at Pascal Barbot’s Astrance, with Michel Rostang, Yannick Alleno, and with the great masters of the culinary arts in various fields such as chocolate, fish, bakery, delicatessen, etc. made him the rising star of French gastronomy at only 34 years old.

Indra Carrillo had already opened a first restaurant La Condesa in homage to the neighborhood of his childhood in Mexico City. It was already rue Rodier in Paris, but at number 17, and there were twenty-four covers.

Today, La Condesa has moved to 13 on the same street, and the new restaurant has thirty-four covers. The atmosphere is completely redesigned in the style of Indra Carrillo: the materials, the colors, the sound comfort, the tableware.

The dining rooms of La Condesa restaurant. | Laurent Dupont

To push the door of the restaurant is to enter the new universe of Indra Carrillo, a universe that he imagined down to the smallest detail with the architect Camille Flammarion. The rooms follow one another, separated by arches which accentuate the perspective and are extended by mirrors.

Three rooms: the Chef’s table, in onyx, whose large openings offer a panoramic view of the kitchen; the bright room Noisette; the Salle Blanche, which can be privatized with its collection of a few hundred bottles of wine subtly arranged in four cabinets.

New culinary journeys in six or eight stops

Indra Carrillo’s cuisine audaciously and precisely combines French gastronomy with influences from around the world: Mexico, United States, Spain, England, Denmark, Japan…

In his new playground, the Mexican chef can finally also indulge his passion for chocolate – an area he knows well, since he was a student of Bernachon in Lyon before becoming manager of the chocolate factory. at the Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence (three Michelin stars).

At La Condesa restaurant, homemade chocolate. | Laurent Dupont

Wines take on an even more prominent place at the new address of La Condesa. With the complicity of oenologist Daniel Henderson, Indra Carrillo has enriched his cellar with new nuggets from France, Italy, Portugal, California, South America… with an ever greater place given to biodynamic wines. and rare grape varieties.

At La Condesa restaurant, space egg, daikon radish, pear sorbet and flax seed crumble. | Laurent Dupont

Three examples of dishes served at La Condesa restaurant: space egg and daikon radish, pear sorbet and flax seed crumble, corn tortellini, tonka bean and lightly spiced roasted corn infusion, mushrooms in three ways, buckwheat emulsion, meadowsweet royal, enoki pickles, smoked roasted mushroom broth, mushroom and truffle cromesquis.

At La Condesa restaurant, mushrooms in three ways, buckwheat emulsion, meadowsweet royal, enoki pickles, smoked roasted mushroom broth, mushroom and truffle cromesquis. | Laurent Dupont

Note the excellent bread from Meilleur Ouvrier de France Olivier Magne, as well as the Sol Naciente Bio coffee from Sierra Nevada in Colombia, roasted by Coutume Café and served with sweets (tamarind fruit paste, chocolate nougat, etc.).

Three-course lunch menu at 55 euros, only on Fridays. At dinner, six-course tasting menu at 120 euros, food-wine pairings (six half-glasses) at 65 euros. Eight-course tasting menu at 150 euros, food-wine pairings (eight half-glasses) at 80 euros.

At La Condesa restaurant, corn tortellini, tonka bean and lightly spiced roasted corn infusion. | Laurent Dupont

13, rue Rodier, 75009 Paris. Tel.: 01 53 20 94 90. No sign outside, you now have to ring the bell to access the intimate and secret universe of chef Indra Carrillo. Service only in the evening except Sunday and Monday. Open Friday noon. Card from 30 to 68 euros. Reservations: www.lacondesa-paris.com

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